秘魯菜是全南美最好吃的,這是眾所皆知的事實。我認為 秘魯美食 不僅最好吃,也最有特色。
秘魯的食物與南美其他國家有很大的不同,原因之一與擁有許多亞洲移民有關。
移民至秘魯的華人大多以開中餐廳維生,改良成符合秘魯人口味的中式料理大受歡迎,創造出了特別的「Chifa(秘魯中餐)」文化。經過將近兩百年,那些結合中式料理的菜餚,也漸漸的上了傳統秘魯菜的名單。
當然,除了受中式影響的菜色之外,秘魯還有很多有名又經典的料理。
認識一個國家與文化,最容易的方式就是品嚐當地的食物。
☀
在秘魯旅行的五個月中,我吃了很多當地的食物,有太多美味的,無法一一列出,在這裡寫出七個“我認為必須也是值得嘗試的秘魯美食”。
① Ceviche 醃生魚
Ceviche是秘魯數一數二有名的菜,尤其在北海岸,沒有吃上一盤ceviche就不能說自己到此一遊。
Ceviche是一種生魚的料理,有點像是沙拉冷盤。生的魚肉切成小塊後,泡在特製調味的檸檬汁裡醃漬,拌入一點芫荽和辣椒,加上生的紅洋蔥絲,通常旁邊會配上玉米粒和幾片水煮的番薯。
在海岸地區的餐廳通常以ceviche當作前菜,當然,如果你很喜歡,也是可以點一大盤來當主菜。

我在Máncora第一次嚐到了ceviche,魚肉的表面因為碰到檸檬汁的酸,就像是遇熱一樣,變成了白色的,不過,裡面都還是生的,吃起來的口感就和生魚片差不多。由於我個人並不喜歡吃生魚片,那種軟綿的口感讓我感到噁心,所以就再也沒有吃過ceviche了。
其實,ceviche的味道很特別,有點檸檬的酸味,當中又帶著清香。對於不排斥生魚片的人來說,這道菜應該很合口味,也難怪ceviche是秘魯沿海一帶最受歡迎的菜餚了。
② Lomo saltado
Lomo saltado是一道最經典的中式 秘魯美食 。
牛肉、洋蔥、番茄皆切成手指大小的條狀,還有炸薯條,全用大火一起快炒,並加入醬油調味,最後撒上巴西里(parsley),旁邊配上一碗白飯。

是的!秘魯人把炸薯條拿來炒,該說很奇怪,還是很有創意呢?
炸薯條遇到醬油和番茄出的水後,就變濕軟了。應該不只我認為不香脆的炸薯條很不合理,所以有些人會把薯條獨立放在盤中,而非與其他菜炒在一起。
每次吃到lomo saltado都會讓我有家的感覺,又是熱炒、又是醬油、又是白飯,這道菜的口味幾乎就是中式料理,然而,裡面又藏著一點點的秘魯,我非常喜歡。
③ Tequeños
Tequeños算是一種點心,也是經典的派對手拿食物。
Tequeños應該可以叫做“起司棒”,它的外皮非常酥脆,裡面是可以拉絲的起司,本身沒有什麼味道,所以會配上酪梨醬(guacamole)一起吃。
我在Huanchaco的青年旅館打工換宿時,廚師朋友Seba不僅向我介紹了tequeños,還讓我在廚房和他一起做,我才發現,原來這道必吃的秘魯菜根本就超級簡單。
在餛飩皮中放入切成長條狀的andino起司,皮上抹一點水後包起來,兩頭捏緊,變成一個中間有點鼓的長方形,然後油炸至金黃色,就可以吃了。
我曾經感到很訝異,秘魯大大小小的超市和雜貨店都有賣現成的「餛飩皮」,普遍程度比台灣還高,難不成秘魯人很喜歡吃餛飩?
現在終於得到解答了,因為tequeños已經成為家常的食物,所以,重要的食材——餛飩皮也成為市場必賣的商品。
Tequeños有趣地展現了華人移民在秘魯帶出的影響,和兩個飲食文化的結合,它也許不是最厲害、做工最精緻的美食,但絕對是值得一嚐的秘魯限定。
④ Pollo a la brasa 烤雞
根據我住在利馬的朋友Eduardo所說,pollo a la brasa是秘魯最好吃、最有名的一道菜餚,也是秘魯人最愛的。我不敢說是不是最好吃,但確實是秘魯人最平常的一個餐點選項,到處都能找到專賣pollo a la brasa的餐廳。
Pollo a la brasa名字很長,說穿了就是烤雞。整隻雞用多種香料醃製後,慢火烤熟,肉質軟嫩多汁。依個人的食量可以選擇一隻、半隻、四分之一的烤雞,不論哪個選項,都會附上一大盤的薯條,有些餐廳還有多樣的沙拉可以無限吃。
我最喜歡的是那些醬料,其實烤雞本身已經有味道了,但是多樣的醬料也是秘魯烤雞的特色之一。除了基本的番茄醬、美乃滋、田園沙拉醬 (ranch sauce),還會有綠辣醬、粉紅醬、橄欖醬等等,每個餐廳供應的不同。
⑤ Aji de gallina
Aji de gallina直接翻譯成中文是「母雞的辣椒」的意思,是一道秘魯媽媽都會做的家常菜。我喜歡aji de gallina,長相普通,但是味道十分特別,很給人驚喜。
Aji de gallina的重點是濃稠的醬,由南美特有的黃色辣椒與洋蔥、牛奶、堅果等食材熬煮製成,拌入切碎的雞肉絲,配上白飯和煮熟的馬鈴薯片,最後放上切半的水煮蛋和紫色的橄欖做點綴。
黃色的醬很濃郁、順口,吃起來像是西式那種creamy的醬,不是中式用太白粉勾芡的那種黏糊感。除了辣椒的香和辣之外,還能嚐到來自多種食材的豐富滋味,拌著白飯吃剛剛好。
⑥ Caldo de gallina 雞湯麵
Caldo de gallina是庫斯科(Cusco)限定,也是庫斯科必吃。
Caldo de gallina是chicken soup,也就是雞湯的意思,不過,我覺得叫做「雞肉麵」或是「雞湯麵」會比較正確。一大碗的雞湯裡面有麵條和白煮的雞肉,還有醃製過的紅蘿蔔和花菜。
雞湯喝起來很香醇,醃過的蔬菜帶著甜酸味,還可以加上攤販自製的辣醬,或著擠點新鮮的檸檬汁,味道更有層次。吃起來超級像我們中式的湯麵,只不過他們用的是義大利麵。

在庫斯科舊城區的San Pedro市場裡,有好多賣caldo de gallina的攤販,便宜又道地,是許多本地人解決中餐的地方。
☀ Lucy告訴你一個小秘密:
如果在San Pedro市場裡吃雞湯麵的話,不管是哪個攤位,湯都是可以免費續的,有些甚至還可以加麵喔。
▼ 市場裡賣caldo de gallina的攤位,大家都是坐在攤位前的板凳吃。

⑦ Alpaca 羊駝肉
羊駝是秘魯非常重要的動物,不只身上的毛有經濟效益,羊駝肉也是秘魯人日常飲食的一部分。
羊駝肉就和我們常吃的牛羊肉一樣,可以有很多烹調方式,常見的是煎的肉排、烤肋排、切塊燉煮。羊駝肉的口感和羊肉差不多,而且也帶有一點點羊騷味,料理的好的話,肉質很嫩,吃起來又香又美味。
想吃羊駝肉,在秘魯安地斯山脈一帶的地區都能找到,尤其在像庫斯科、阿雷基帕這種遊客比較多的地方,那些秘魯菜的餐廳一定都有幾道羊駝肉的料理。
羊駝肉雖然好吃,但是一想到可愛的羊駝和牠那張永遠都在微笑的臉,怎麼吃得下去呢?唯一的解決方式就是「不要想!」,只要想著盤子裡的肉有多美味就好。
▼ 在阿雷基帕一間餐廳裡點的套餐,有三種肉,最左邊就是羊駝肉啦!

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