亞馬遜 雨林是全球最大的熱帶雨林,60%在巴西,剩下的40%則分布在周邊的國家,包括:委內瑞拉、哥倫比亞、厄瓜多爾、祕魯、玻利維亞。雨林的生態、物種多樣,因此,在每個國家看到的雨林景象會不太相同。
小的時候,我家有一本亞馬遜雨林野外生存的教育漫畫書,內容介紹了雨林的動植物、氣候和自然現象等等,就因著這本書,讓我在南美旅行時決定一定要去亞馬遜雨林看看。
因為在農場打工換宿,我在厄瓜多爾的亞馬遜區住了兩個星期。工作以外的時間,除了睡覺和當吊床馬鈴薯之外,當然是要好好探索一下這個有趣的地方。
- 走進叢林探險
來到這裡之後,我才明白了。所謂的亞馬遜雨林是指氣候,不代表這裡全都是被大樹覆蓋、居民住在茅草屋,亞馬遜雨林裡也有城市、一般的房子、柏油路,而那些真的長滿了自然的樹木和奇怪生物的地方,被叫做叢林。
首先,進到叢林裡探險,除了隨身帶著水和開山刀,最重要的,就是穿上高筒的雨鞋,防滑、防陷在泥巴裡,也防不明的生物。
我們從農場東邊往下走,經過一堆比人還高的雜草,大概十五分鐘後就會進到叢林了。叢林裡面沒有路,我們只能沿著看似有人踩過的地方走。腳踏在地面上是濕軟的感覺,全都被厚厚的落葉覆蓋著,當中還躲了很多小生物,希望沒有被我們踩死。
我們跟著農場主人Ferhat在樹木中穿梭,即便他對這裡很熟,遇到轉彎或岔路時,還是會在樹幹上綁繩子做記號,免得回程的時候迷路。
一邊走,Ferhat會一邊解說,他認識叢林裡的各種植物,尤其遇到菌類時,更是滔滔不絕。可惜我的西班牙文還沒有厲害到包含“生物”這個領域,所以根本不知道他在說什麼,只能欣賞它們的外觀。
在叢林裡看到的景象真的和一般森林不一樣,這裡長滿了綠色植物,有大樹、有爬藤、有青苔,枯了的樹幹上長著一些奇特顏色或形狀的菌類,到處都有新生命,雖然沒有看到比較大型的動物,但青蛙、昆蟲、鳥類都是隨處可見。
▼ 叢林裡的大樹,樹幹上也佈滿了青苔。
走在叢林裡倒是挺涼快的,因為大部分的地方都被植物遮住了,太陽曬不到。不過,真的是太潮濕了,嚴重到感覺好像在蒸桑拿一樣,我的皮膚上都是水,怎麼擦都不會乾。沒多久,衣服也濕了,褲子也濕了。
我們一路下坡,走了一個多小時,來到了河流。不是有食人魚、幾公里寬的那種大河,就只是一條崎嶇、石頭滿佈的小溪流。河水非常清澈,不深也不急,我們直接踏進河水裡,逆流往上走。
最後,來到了一個小瀑布。我們什麼也不管,脫了衣服就跳進水裡,站在瀑布下讓水沖。被叢林的濕氣悶了很久的皮膚,一下子碰到冰涼的河水,感覺非常舒爽。
▼ 長筒雨鞋真好用,可以直接走在河水裡。
▼ 叢林裡的瀑布很小,很適合玩水。
- 亞馬遜區的瀑布
由於普約(Puyo)是進入亞馬遜區的第一個城市,大部分的遊客只會停留在這裡,不會往更深入的雨林區去,所以,普約附近發展出不少景點,就離我們住的農場不遠。
也許是地形的關係,加上水量豐沛,亞馬遜區這一帶有超多的瀑布。除了那種隱藏在叢林裡的之外,也有一些被開發變成景點的。
・ 搭便車
我和其他打工換宿的人一起出了農場,走了好一段路去到大馬路,也就是往普約的國道,幾個瀑布就在這條路上。
這個路口有個公車站,但是其他人並沒有準備等不知道什麼時候會來的公車,他們伸出食指來要搭便車。沒有多久,還真的有車停了下來,而且這台車剛好夠大,可以把我們五個人都裝進去。好心的大叔看我們不太知道要去哪裡,直接推薦了其中一個瀑布,並把我們載到入口。
▼ 回程時,我們邊走邊等待搭便車的機會。
・ 好美又好玩的瀑布
下車後,我們照著指標往瀑布的方向走,沒想到,入口竟然要收門票錢,而且還有一家賣零食、飲料的小商店,真的是個觀光景點。進了入口後,還要走一段路,不過不需要穿梭在叢林裡,這裡都已經被整理過了,有好走的路。
▼ 通往瀑布有路、有橋,很方便。
這個瀑布比較大,下面還有很適合游泳的水池,我們當然衣服一脫,全都跳下水去玩了。雖然是個景點,但是也許因為時間不對,沒有其他的遊客。只有水的沖刷聲和昆蟲的鳴叫聲,能這樣享受在大自然裡,真是太美好了!
▼ 瀑布不是大的很壯觀,但是很美。
▼ 我在瀑布下游泳。
不得不說,我原本有點失望,因為在這裡看到的和我以前從書上或影片上認識的亞馬遜雨林差太多了,沒有1公里寬的大河,也沒有一望無際的森林。主要因為我去的是亞馬遜的上游,都是小河,再來因為我人就身在森林裡,當然沒辦法看到像直升機上拍出的壯觀雨林景象囉!
不過,對我來說,來到這裡就是一個全新的體驗,不同的氣候、不同的自然生態,非常的有趣,這一趟算是值得了!
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