南美洲最有名的動物大概是 駱馬 和 羊駝 吧!
來旅行前,我一直以為駱馬和羊駝是同一種動物有兩個名字,經過阿雷基帕的羊駝博物館和國家公園之旅的教育後,我的知識大增,搖身一變,成為美洲駝小達人。
美洲駝大致上分為兩類:駱馬(llama)和羊駝(alpaca),駱馬和羊駝又各有三種,每一種的長相都不太一樣。牠們都住在安地斯山脈一帶,生活海拔為3000公尺以上,是一種高原動物。
美洲駝有許多經濟用途,主要是毛和肉,駱馬也用來搬運重物和產奶。有不少山地居民靠養美洲駝維生,以羊駝佔多數,在郊外的地方經常可以看到放牧中的一大群羊駝。
大致上,要從外表區分駱馬和羊駝很容易。要分辨出三種駱馬就不太容易了,因為牠們看起來都差不多,也很少有人會提到不同種的駱馬。然而,三種羊駝長相差異比較大,更重要的是,牠們的毛價錢也不同,只要去比較高級的羊駝毛衣店就一定會聽到三種羊駝各自的名字,所以比較為人所知。
・駱馬 llama
駱馬體型較大,身高和成年人差不多,耳朵和嘴都比較長,長相像馬和駱駝。一隻駱馬的毛可能有多種顏色,也可能有斑點。
▼這隻是小孩駱馬,體型比較小。
▼ 這隻大駱馬比我還高,其實有點嚇人,小駱馬在喝媽媽的奶。(要拍到動物完美的照片好困難啊,為什麼都只照到屁股呢…)
・羊駝 alpaca
羊駝則是長得像比較大隻、長脖子的羊,毛覆蓋全身,只有露出小小的臉。羊駝都是單色的毛,常見的是白色,偶爾會看到棕色或黑色的。
▼ Huacayo是羊駝中最常見的一種,也是長相最受大家喜歡的,牠們的毛又多又蓬鬆,圓圓胖胖的,呆呆的臉看起來隨時都在微笑,非常可愛,我們一般買到的羊駝毛製品都是huacayo的毛。
▼ 在觀光景點常常可以看到「明星羊駝」,就是主人帶來讓遊客拍照賺錢的,通常都是長得最可愛的一隻,也就一定是huacayo。
▼ 另一種是比較少見的羊駝suri,最大的特色是牠們那一卷卷垂著的長毛,看起來有一種流浪漢的感覺,不過我覺得很有個性,只是會想幫牠把蓋住眼睛的毛修剪一下。
▼ 最後一種是野生的羊駝:vicuña,體型比較瘦小,因為牠們的毛很細軟,又難取得,所以是羊駝毛裡最貴的一種。
羊駝既實用也食用。
在庫斯科和阿雷基帕有很多賣本地菜的餐廳,通常都有羊駝肉的料理,駱馬肉比較少見,聽說因為駱馬肉質較硬,大家更喜歡羊駝肉。
我在秘魯也吃了好幾次羊駝肉,煎的、烤的、燉的都有,口感像很嫩的牛肉,味道有一點點的羊騷味,很好吃,雖然吃的時候會想起羊駝那可愛的臉,但在這裡其實就和我們吃羊肉一樣的平常,不是什麼特別的食物。
▼ 我和媽媽在阿雷基帕去了一間小高級的餐廳,吃了一道三種肉排組合的菜,羊駝、牛、雞。
我們在阿雷基帕旁的國家公園也見到了不少羊駝。
好幾次都看到了野生的羊駝vicuña,牠們都是五、六隻群體行動,在野地上吃草,和人類離得遠遠的。
另外,還遇到一群人養的美洲駝在路邊,讓我們去照相,第一次有機會和這麼多美洲駝近距離接觸,太好玩了,幾十隻駱馬和羊駝參雜在一起,經過導遊的解說,有抓到分辨的技巧了。
▼ 國家公園裡放牧的美洲駝群,都只照到屁股.,耳朵上的紅色穗子是做記號用的。
▼ 牧駝的小孩在旁邊平淡地看著,一定覺得我們大驚小怪,不過就是一些駱馬和羊駝嘛。
來到南美,必須要買一些美洲駝毛的製品。
美洲駝毛的好壞和價錢大有不同,駱馬毛因為比較粗,只會用來做外套,或是毛毯、地毯這些生活用品,而穿上身的衣物,毛衣、帽子、手套、圍巾等等,就會用羊駝毛來做。
最好也最貴的是野生的vicuña毛,suri毛也很好,但是都不常見,只有比較大、比較高級的品牌會有這兩種毛料的製品,一般的店裡最好的是小羊駝毛(baby alpaca),相較起來又細又軟,就是羊羔毛的概念,最普通的是羊駝毛(alpaca),駱馬毛則是比較粗,用來做外套,或是毛毯、地毯這些生活用品。
阿雷基帕似乎是買羊駝毛產品最好的地方,從便宜的紀念品店到超貴的名牌店都有,從一件30soles的毛衣到一件3000soles的都有。
我們也在舊城區逛了不少店、看了很多羊駝毛製品,好笑的是,價位高的店家都會向我們解釋每個商品所含的毛料,一般羊駝毛、小羊駝毛、野生羊駝毛等等,價錢會因此差很多,紀念品店則是大不相同,我拿起一件毛衣,店員說是小羊駝毛,我拿起一條圍巾,店員也說是小羊駝毛,連羊駝填充玩具的毛也是小羊駝毛,我看店裡所有的東西都是小羊駝毛做的吧,哪來這麼多小羊駝供應毛給他們啊!
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